"Forse come redattori e giornalisti abbiamo il compito di promuovere la coltivazione della propria espressione creativa oltre il costante acquisto dell'ultimo articolo. Ho molta fiducia nelle nuove generazioni, in particolare nella Gen Z, nell'attuazione di quelle nuove idee e politiche necessarie perché influiscono direttamente sulle loro vite. Loro, a differenza delle generazione precedenti, sono molto consapevoli del danno inflitto alla Terra e alle risorse naturali dalla ricerca del "progresso" della vecchia generazione"

Hi Daniela, welcome to our “sustainability values section”, can you tell us about your work background and your current role in Vogue?

I am currently the Fashion Director at Large for Vogue China and the International Creative Director for Vogue Singapore, which will launch next month. I have been in the business for over 25 years and as a Fashion and Creative Director I have led several Vogues and other International Fashion Publications worldwide.

From your experience, what challenges do you think a fashion magazine will face to help consumers make more sustainable choices?

I think the issue goes beyond the fashion magazines. We are currently trapped in a cycle which sees the average release of 3 collections per season fueling the incessant desire to buy new things. This cycle needs to be slowed down and returned back to the basics. Releasing only one seasonal collection, to start with, would already be a step in the right direction. Once that set up is altered, magazines can follow suit adapting to the new cycle and helping the consumer to also reassess their fashion needs and choices towards a “sustainable mindset”

What values do you think the fashion system needs to make up in order to spread the “culture of sustainability”?

I always believed that fashion is an expression of one’s individuality. This leads me to the idea of expressing one’s creative vision also through recycling and repurposing, as well as new items. Vintage has always been one of my sources of inspiration. I see a greater scope into educating the younger generations into appreciating that we do not always need new things as they are often the repetitions/slight alterations of the old ones. Perhaps as editors and journalists we also need to promote cultivating one’s creative expression beyond the constant purchase of the latest item

There is a drive towards circularity as a response to the unsustainable nature of the fashion industry: how do you see circular business models (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, etc.) working effectively for the fashion industry?

Yes I do. Again, we have to slow down the current speed of the fashion cycle, which is frankly unsustainable, and proceed to re-educate the customer to value and appreciate quality, sustainability and originality over constant “newness”

During the Covid 19 pandemic, from Anna Winter to Giorgio Armani declared that the fashion industry must become more “sustainable” (slower, less waste, etc.). Do you think this is possible for fast growing countries like China?

Yes I do. Again, we have to slow down the current speed of the fashion cycle, which is frankly unsustainable, and proceed to re-educate the customer to value and appreciate quality, sustainability and originality over constant “newness”

Millennials are much more attentive to environmental issues than previous generations. As a connoisseur of this world, do you think that even “fashion” purchases are dictated by this attention? 

I believe Gen Z more than Millennials are guided by their value system and beliefs when it comes to spending their income in general, fashion choices included.

Your work has led you to live in different countries. To this aim, can you tell us which countries you find most attentive to “environmental sustainability” and tell us a good example that you would recommend fashion brands to follow?

I think we are still at the early stages of our social collective consciousness in understanding and accepting the impact of Global Warming on our lives and the importance of Sustainability. There is of course a lot of talking about it, which at least signals a level of awareness, but no real tangible policies have been implemented as yet at States’ levels. I have a lot of faith in the new generations- particularly Gen Z- into implementing those necessary new ideas and policies because it directly affects their lives. They, unlike their previous cohorts, are very conscious of the damage inflicted to the Earth and the natural resources by the older Generation’s pursuit of “progress”

The UN has set targets for the sustainability agenda for 2030. Based on this, how do you imagine the fashion world in ten years’ time?

The “ONU Sustainable Development Goals” is certainly a step in the right direction and it will take a very coordinated effort to actually achieve them. With regards to the Fashion Industry, I believe it will be taking place in a very different landscape and manner regardless. The impact of CV-19 of our business has speeded up a process of change that was already in progress.